Cycling through New Zealand: a bicycle adventure from the North Island to the South Island
Per la versione italiana clicca qui.
Originally written in Italian. Read the original version here.
Imagine taking a painting, a portrait of a fantastic world that could only exist in dreams. Now look deep into it, until the edges dissolve and draw you into a surreal experience, a journey into a parallel world, or perhaps just somewhere far from what you once thought possible. Add birdsong, the dance between rain and blazing sun, and the sound of wind. Keep this image vivid, as it will help you understand what we experienced over the three weeks.
Dear reader,
What happens when two explorers—a bit unprepared, a bit dreamy, and decidedly determined—decide to travel through New Zealand by bicycle? It's a journey of ups and downs, full of unexpected events and chance encounters, a trip around the world to discover something more about ourselves.
I'll outline some of the main themes and key stops that marked these three weeks that took us from Karekare (on the North Island) to Westport (on the South Island). This is just a taste; more detailed articles will follow. If you want to know more, just comment or write to me.
Cycling is the journey, not the destination
Our adventure began just before Christmas, with loaded bikes and high spirits. After a month in the Sacred Earth community, beautiful as it had been, we felt the need to get moving again. It wasn't time to stop! So we decided to head toward Auckland and, with the help of a train, reach Hamilton, the starting point of our bicycle journey.
For this experience, we decided to set some fundamental rules: prioritize fun and safety over speed and efficiency; if one of us is tired, let the fresher person make decisions, because it's precisely when you want to arrive quickly that it's easiest to make hasty and unsafe choices. For this reason, we deliberately chose to avoid all roads we considered dangerous or unpleasant in any way, even if it meant using trains or buses. (Cycling all day on a busy highway with trucks passing you at 100 km/h half a meter away isn't pleasant – I don't know, how you feel about that?)
Unexpected discoveries: Blue Springs and National Park
Some of our most memorable moments came from unplanned detours. The Blue Springs, a crystal-clear waterway responsible for 60% of New Zealand's bottled water, captivated us. From the path along the riverbank, you can see the hypnotic movement of aquatic plants dancing in sync with the current.
Similarly, in the following days, we decided to completely change our route to explore the three central volcanoes of the North Island. This detour became one of our most surreal experiences, surrounded by a lunar landscape that served as the backdrop for "The Lord of the Rings." Even better, we met a wonderful French cycling couple, with whom we later shared some stretches of road and some pleasant evenings.
The Timber Trail: a natural spectacle
One of the journey's highlights was the Timber Trail, a route dotted with 35 suspension bridges (9 of them massive) through the native Pureora forest. Remember that image I asked you to imprint in your mind initially? It is in front of you, in the majesty of a primordial forest. For nature lovers, it's highly recommended – you can do it on foot or by bike. We spent more time stopping, admiring, and taking photos than cycling, but what was the rush?
Getting lost to find ourselves
Not every day was picturesque. We faced torrential rains, challenging terrain, and got lost a couple of times. Navigation isn't my strong suit! Each time, though, we used all our resources, breaking the monotony that can set in after so many days on bikes, growing closer as a couple, and earning ourselves plenty of scrapes after crossing streams, fallen trees, and private property gates. We met kind people who hosted us in the middle of nowhere, offering us a place to sleep and water to drink.
Crossing Cook Strait: a rather eventful journey
The ferry crossing from Wellington to Picton was nothing short of cinematic. Six-meter waves crashed against the boat, transforming our journey into a unique adventure. From the seventh deck, we watched water spray against the windows, a tribute to the majesty of this sea that I love to admire, respect, and discover.
Special encounters
I want to thank some remarkable people, listed in chronological order of meeting:
Celia, whom we met through Warmshowers, hosted us in Hamilton before we began our journey. A woman who traveled by bike for years with Tim, her husband, who, as she would say, "has pedaled far away" after a tragic accident. In Tim's honor, Celia decided to open her home to cyclists worldwide, and we are more than honored to have met her and been her first guests.
Margaux and Pierre, a young French couple who, like us, set off with many dreams and a bike, are now cycling through New Zealand, alternating saddle and pedals with hiking boots. We shared some stretches of road with them and a New Year's dinner. After weeks of not physically seeing family and friends, you become more open to creating meaningful relationships. There's something about shared adventure that brings people together quickly.
Lynneke, a lady of Dutch origin who let us pitch our tent in her garden in exchange for a plate of pesto pasta. About 25 years ago, Lynneke was traveling around the world with a bike that would be worth little money today and equipment we can only imagine. She reminds me of my first long-distance journey, cycling with my father's old mountain bike from Italy to the North Cape. I always question the need for sophisticated and technological equipment, especially if you're not seeking a performance experience and embrace the motto "the journey is the destination."
Charles opened his home to us, leaving us the front door keys despite his house being an open construction site due to renovations. This showed us how much relationships and hospitality matter more than ego and personal image. Next to the bed he offered us was a huge box labeled "Istanbul–Hong Kong" – his next cycling adventure. That night, we slept with his dog Ralph curled up between our legs, touched by our exhaustion and keeping us company through our dreams.
Ronnie and John, an adorable English couple who moved to Nelson and are passionate about bikes and ultra-cycling. Our stay with them was memorable, and I'm sure that one day they'll complete the Tour Divide, an ultra-cycling race entirely off-road that starts in Canada and reaches the US-Mexico border – a total of 4,418 km of pure madness.
As a friend with whom I shared a glass of wine and who told me some anecdotes on two wheels, it's the people you meet who make the journey itself, and I would add that they also make it an exciting and unforgettable adventure.
The best gift
It's Christmas – what was your best gift? Ours was coffee from a vending machine. When morale is low and you think everything is closed, hot coffee from a machine can completely turn the day around. Beyond that, I treasured every hot shower, river swim, shelter from rain, and tasty meal. Travel like this makes you live through contrasts – when fatigue and conditions lower your expectations, even what you usually take for granted becomes precious.
I still remember returning from my cycling trip to the North Cape, or a 10-month stint in Latin America, or after completing the Transcontinental Race – a 4,000 km ultra-cycling challenge. It's like stepping in and out of a different world. Every time you return to daily life, you hope and promise yourself not to forget the gratitude you've gained. Unfortunately, time isn't always kind to these promises, and sometimes I need to venture out again to remember the enormous privilege (and responsibility) of being born in one of the world's richest and safest countries.
More than just a bike ride
This wasn't just a bicycle trip but a lesson in adaptability, human connection, and personal and couple rediscovery. Traveling with Valerie taught me compassion and understanding of another person's physical and emotional language, especially in difficult moments. None of this is taken for granted. After years of knowing each other, it's still not easy to recognize the language of the person you share most of your life with. Testing ourselves on common and challenging projects is a special way to rediscover each other continuously.
The next adventure
Our destination, Westport, now awaits us. We'll spend two months working in a hostel and learning to surf. But this, dear readers, will be a story for our following newsletter.
Until then, keep exploring.
Ale